JAKE’S FAMOUS CRAWFISH, established in 1892, is one of the three Portland restaurants featured in Ridgefield resident Rick Browne’s latest book, A Century of Restaurants.
Over the years, Ridgefield resident Rick Browne has been a frequent contributor for The Reflector Newspaper including contributing to the food page, writing restaurant profiles and several feature stories. Additionally, he hosted a cooking show on public television for seven years, was the photo editor at The Columbian for a number of years and he is also the author of 15 cookbooks.
Aside from just being named editor-in-chief of a new barbecue magazine coming out in the spring, Browne is on a publicity tour promoting his newest book entitled A Century of Restaurants: Stories and Recipes from 100 of America’s Most Historic and Successful Restaurants.
“I was sitting in a restaurant in Michigan that I went to when I was a teenager with my parents,’’ Browne said. “When I discovered it was 100 years old, I thought ‘this would be a good idea if I could find a few more’ for a book.”
What he came up with was 250 centenarian restaurants in the United States. Based on a few factors including geographic differences, menu variety and historical significance, Browne whittled that number down to a more manageable list and began his intensive research. A map in the book not only details his 46,000-mile journey, but illustrates his passion for food and the history that can be served up with it.
“You can eat lots of places but if you eat at these places, you’re literally being part of the history of America,’’ Browne said. “It’s something about this country that we can’t lose. It’s just a smart thing to do and you’ll enjoy the food.”
From Washington state to Florida, California to New York, Browne’s book covers an array of demographics and cuisine that are peppered with stories of Americana dating back as far as 1668.
A Century of Restaurants could actually peak the interest of students in a history curriculum and, in fact, there’s a note in the book about quantity discounts for schools. It’d be a fantastic addition for any traveler, armchair or active. Listing over 100 recipes, it’s a unique cookbook. In short, its appeal is far-reaching.
The stories are as varied as the menus. The oldest restaurant listed (1668) actually functioned as a prison at one time and witnessed the hanging of one of its prisoners up the hill from the dining hall. One of the newest restaurants, circa 1910, was lost to a local rancher in a craps game and serves, among other things, lamb fries and calf brains. Another listing, that shares the distinction of newest centenarian, seats only eight people and is in danger of closing due to the fact that the 65-year-old owner is probably the last generation willing to work it. More interesting, still, is the establishment that opened in 1673 and was owned by a pirate through the Revolution.
Some of these restaurants, not surprisingly, are said to be haunted. One is located at an elevation of 3,500 feet in the Great Smoky Mountains. They’ve weathered the Revolutionary War, the Civil War, Prohibition and The Great Depression. Patrons have ranged from Benedict Arnold to Thomas Edison, to Henry Ford to numerous presidents.
Area residents are fortunate that all three of Browne’s Oregon entries are in Portland – Dan & Louis Oyster Bar established in 1907, Huber’s Café established in 1879 and Jake’s Famous Crawfish established in 1892. As long as these restaurants continue to be supported, they will continue to stand.
“Of my 250, we probably lost five or six in the last year already. Go to these small restaurants that have been in someone’s family. If we don’t patronize them, they will disappear,” Browne said.
The picture A Century of Restaurants paints is of American tenacity. The majority of the centenarians featured within Browne’s pages rose from humble beginnings of saloons, diners, and make-shift eateries. Many have survived numerous fires, earthquakes and great economic uncertainty. Still they stand as a testament to generations of purveyors, not just of food but places to gather, to be in the midst of history and a part of it.
To purchase a copy of A Century of Restaurants or for more information, go to www.centuryofrestaurants.com.
